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Db2 Jdbc Driver Jar File Name LengthPrerequisites. You need access to an Oracle Database 1. Oracle Database 1. These can be the same database. Download Oracle SQL Developer 3. Earlier versions of SQL Developer also support database migrations, however the flow of work has been changed in SQL Developer 3. Preparing your Environment for Migration. You only need to create a repository once, you can use it again and again for each migration you do. Setting up a Migration Repository In order use SQL Developer Migrations you need to create a Migrations Repository. This is a database schema that stores the meta- data collected and transformed in the migration process. In order to build repository in a new schema for the meta- data, the user requires the following role and system privileges: RESOURCECREATE SESSIONCREATE VIEWOnce you have created the schema and granted the above privileges, create a connection for the user and you are ready to install the repository. See the SQL Developer documentation on creating users and setting up connections. In SQL Developer, select Tools > Migration > Repository management > Create Repository.. There are two steps to this process: Configuring JDBC drivers, and. Configuring the third- party connection. Configuration of JDBC drivers needs to be carried out only once per third- party connection (My. SQL, Microsoft SQL Server and Sybase), whereas the second step is carried out for each database you wish to migrate. Configuring JDBC Drivers. JDBC is the Java Database Connectivity standard and it provides a mechanism for Java programs to connect to databases. For more information on JDBC see here. To access databases using JDBC, we must use a JDBC driver. The driver binary jar file is typically a separate jar file located inside the downloaded archive file: Once downloaded you need to expand the driver binary jar file to a location on your machine. The driver binary jar file is typically a separate jar file located inside the downloaded archive file. Once you have extracted the relevant jar file to your disk, you need to configure SQL Developer to tell it where this driver resides: In SQL Developer choose Tools - > Preferences.. Expand the . To use Check for Updates, start SQL Developer and select Help - > Check for Updates Follow the wizard as follows: Start Oracle SQL Developer. Select Help - > Check for Updates. Follow the Check for Updates Wizard. Select required drivers or third- party extensions. Select the tab for the third- party data you are working with. Tabs are provided for Microsoft SQL Sever, Microsoft Access, DB2 My. SQL, and Teradata. Once configured, you can explore your third- party database just like other Oracle SQL Developer connections. Using the Migration Wizard. Oracle SQL Developer 3. Online and Offline migrations. Online migrations involve connecting directly to the third- party database and migrating the database objects and data to Oracle. Offline migrations use files that you have prepared from the third- party database. You do not need to be able to connect to the third- party database once you have the files in order to follow this approach. Oracle SQL Developer 3. Migration Project and uses a Migration Wizard to walk you through the migration process. To start select your third- party database connection, right- click the connection and select Migrate to Oracle.. You'll need to know a few details for the Migration Wizard: The connection name of your repository owner (Step. You need access to a file directory where the generated scripts will be saved (Step. Whether this is an online or offline migration (Step 4)For an online migration, the connection for the third- party database (Steps 4 and 8)The names of database(s) to be migrated (Step 5)The connection name for a users in the Oracle database who has the privileges to be able to create new users, and to create tables. This user is used to run the create .. Your new migration project appears in the list. Expand the new project to see the Captured Database Objects and Converted Database Objects. Expand the Converted database Objects and see the list of users created. These are the names of the new users in your Oracle Database. To review the migrated data, you need to create connections for the new users. Once complete you can re- enter the process at any point. This re- opens the wizard and completes the phases as required. Capture your Database This step is the first step in the migration process. Convert the Captured Model. The next step in the migration process is to convert the captured model of the database to an Oracle- specific model. The captured model contains data types, naming schemes etc. You'll see the data type conversion dialog. This dialog allows you to specify data type transformations that may be required to convert platform- specific data types to Oracle- specific data types. For the majority of cases, it is safe to accept the defaults here. If you wish, you can change the mappings used, and once you have made your choices, press Next to continue to walk through the wizard. Generate the Target for your Converted Model. Once the conversion process has completed, the SQL Developer Migrations has a model of what the converted database will look like. This is used to generate SQL scripts for the creation of the new Oracle Database schema(s) and to run these scripts. It is this user (connection) that is used to execute the scripts. These generated scripts will be in the directory you specified in the Wizard. To generate these scripts: Navigate to the Converted Database Objects node. Select and right click on the node. Select Generate Target.. The Migration Wizard generates the necessary SQL for creating your database schema(s). Migrate the Data to Oracle The last step in the Migration Wizard is to migrate the data to the new database. Migrating the data is a process that copies the data from the third- party database to the new tables in the Oracle database. The Migration Wizard uses the same Oracle database connection required to run the scripts as it does to move the data. To re- enter the Migration Wizard and move the data: Navigate to the Converted Database Objects node. Select and right click on the node. Select Move Data.. This once again invokes the Migration Wizard and. The field labeled . Copy to Oracle. Oracle SQL Developer 3.
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I included affiliate links so you can find the products I used. Click here to read my full disclosure policy. If you missed the before of this makeover, you can see all the pretty pictures here. Let’s get started! Day 1: Prep Cabinets. Remove cabinet doors and cabinet door hardware (hinges). If you plan to reuse them, save them in a Ziploc bag also. I just spray painted the old hinges. However, if it is in your budget to do so, I recommend purchasing new ones. Be sure to take a sample of what you already have to the store with you!))Remove everything from the counters if possible. I emptied a couple of my cabinets, but not all. I pushed as much back as I could and removed anything that was unable to be pushed back. ![]() I found it very helpful to cover my surfaces with brown paper. A roll of it can be found near the drop cloths at Lowes for around $8. It will catch any paint splatter and any dust from sanding, saving a ton of clean up later. I used masking tape to hold it in place. I covered the stove and sink also, but I was able to remove it when I needed to use either. Then I just put it right back. This product worked wonderfully and smelled great, however, it is a deglosser, so it will take the gloss off of any surface you use it on. I had to use the abrasive side in stubborn areas. I started with my cabinet boxes. Action shot! I don’t think I’ve ever been photographed while cleaning before. I have several tables I was able to set up, but you could just as easily lay them out on a drop cloth or brown paper on the floor. You can see I carved out a very narrow space in my crowded garage! Clean the cabinet doors. I was able to spray the cleaner right on to the doors this time, since no other surfaces needed to be protected. Look at the difference on this tall cabinet: The cabinet on the right almost looks as though it’s been sanded. I also scraped off the old felt bumpers with a razor blade. Sand the cabinet boxes first. Sand all surface fronts and the lip just inside the cabinet. I did not paint the interior of the cabinets, so no prep is needed there. You are not sanding down to bare wood, just enough to remove any shiny surfaces that still remain after cleaning. Use 3. 20 grit sand paper or a fine sanding block. I like to cut full sheets of sandpaper into four rectangles, then wrap one around an old foam sanding block to sand my pieces, replacing each piece of sandpaper often. When sanding drawer fronts and doors, sand really well where the knobs and pulls are or will be, as those areas will receive the most wear. Use a shop vac to pick up the dust in the cabinets and from the crevices of the cabinet doors. Wipe off any remaining dust with a clean damp cloth. Tape off hood vent, inside of drawers, appliances and anything else that needs protected from paint. Add about a foot of brown paper all around the base of the cabinets to catch drips and splatter. This is the only photo I have, but you can see it also provides a landing spot for your brush and roller as you’re switching back and forth. Woo hoo! Your kitchen is officially prepped! Wasn’t that hard work?? Day 2: Time to Prime! This is what you’ll need to start priming: Kilz Premium Primer. Four inch roller and an additional two- pack of smooth rollers (These are from Lowes and specified, “Doors and Cabinets”.)4- Inch Paint Roller Tray. Paintbrush - I prefer to use a Purdy 2. Inch Angle Brush, but I had this brand new brush on hand already, which is fine for priming. I painted mine much the same way you would paint a wall. I cut in with the brush and then rolled out the easier- to- reach areas. I will warn you that when you stand back and look at your primed cabinets you may start doubting the insane idea you had to paint your cabinets. They will look terrible, but have faith. The paint will look spectacular! Mine looked pretty awful at this point: Prime drawer fronts. I used a paint brush to apply primer to the back of the drawer fronts and a roller to roll out the fronts. DO NOT prime the sides of the drawers, only the fronts and back side of the fronts. Prime the cabinet doors. Lay all of the doors with the back sides facing up. The backs should be painted first. To do this, I found a trick using push pins! Before flipping them over, I lightly hammered a pushpin in each corner to allow the back side to continue to dry thoroughly while still being able to prime the front! Ready for the front side now! It’s also easier to run a roller around the sides with the cabinet doors elevated. Did I mention I was marathon painting? Thankfully primer dries really quickly. Again, I used a paint brush to paint the back of the drawer fronts and a roller to roll out the fronts. DO NOT paint the sides of the drawers, only the fronts and back side of the fronts. This photo shows how smooth and pretty the paint is! Allow everything to dry overnight. Wrap all brushes and rollers with Saran Wrap when not in use. I used mine off and on for about two weeks like this, no washing necessary in between uses. Day 3: Paint, Paint, Paint. Time to paint the back sides of the cabinet doors. You’ll need to remove the push pins from the backs and lay the fronts face down. They should be well dry after sitting overnight, so no push pins necessary. I painted the same way, using a brush to cut in the recessed area and a roller to roll it out. Paint the cabinet boxes next with their second coat of paint. This includes the brown paper on the floor. Take a break and take care of things you’ve been neglecting for the past two days, while your paint dries. Or take your kids to the Strawberry festival and go pick up a bookcase you found on an online yard sale, but had no business doing since you are knee- deep in a kitchen redo war zone. After a few hours of allowing the first coat on the cabinet backs to dry, I applied the second coat. They look so pretty! The brushed areas, could benefit from the paint with primer added for even better coverage. Allow everything to dry overnight. Day 4: Finish Painting. Add push pins once again to the backs of the cabinets. Turn cabinet doors over and paint. I used a brush in the recessed areas and rolled out the flat areas and sides. I let mine dry pretty much all day, then gave them a second coat. The paint dries to the touch really quickly. Let the fronts dry completely overnight. Day 5: Put the Kitchen Back Together. You can wake up to this and know that the painting is behind you! Add handles and drawer pulls. I reused what we had before, since they are still pretty: If you are only painting, you’re done! That was a lot of work, wasn’t it? At this point I still had to paint the inside of the cabinet that I planned to add glass doors to, replace those door panels with glass, add a shelf above the window, install the crown molding above the cabinets, and add wainscoting to our large island. It’s amazing what a difference paint can make! The after photo below is two years after I painted these cabinets and it is still holding up strong: Why not use chalk paint? I had been putting off this project for way too long. My toughest decision was what kind of paint to use. You know I am a huge fan of chalk paint and it seemed so much easier with the “no prep” idea behind chalk paint. However, I chose the latex enamel in the Satin finish and I could not be happier. Vintage Trek Bicycle Frame Serial Numbers, bike. Trek Frame Serial Numbers. Prior. to Late 1. In the case of some early. Treks, the number is under the plastic cable guide on the. Just remove the plastic cable guide to see the. The other place Trek (or their subcontractors) stamped the SN. Note: The SN on your original sales receipt may not. Sales persons sometimes had difficulty reading. Many early Trek bottom bracket shells have a one or. This was. made by the individual framebuilder to mark his/her work. On some bottom. brackets there are two codes: one indicating the maker of the main triangle. If you. know which mark was used by a particular craftsman, please let me know. Serialization Date. The dates coded in the serial numbers, or the dates. These dates are not necessarily. At some time late in each. September or October) the frames produced. Clean the area. well, and use lots of light at various angles. A suggestion by J. Hansen. can help you read a serial number: Serial Number highlighted with. Click on image to see an enlarged version. Lightly wipe it off with a rag. The wax stays in the. S/N. Now you can easily read the number. I have. included a photo of the results from my bike. In this case I used a. Note that even with. Click on the link below to go to the appropriate category. Each seven- character number consists of three letters mixed. The serial number list and the code for the list are. Trek (but hope springs eternal). In the meantime. we have the results of the serial number decoding project: Serial Number Decoding Project. Nearly two hundred Trek owners submitted their. Trek's first serial number system. Trek used this system from. A variant of this first system was used in 8. See ****. year exceptions below. These serial numbers have seven characters, in. L N L N L N N, where L is a letter and N is a number. A = 3. 10 (see note *. B = TX2. 00 (see note **. C = TX3. 00, D = 5. E = TX5. 00, F = 5. B below), G = TX7. TX7. 70 (see note***. H = 7. 10, I = 7. J = TX9. 00. K = 9. L = 9. 30, M = 4. A below),N = 6. 10, 6. A below)O = 9. 50. This numbering system. This letter may also have been used. If you have a leading O (Oh) serial number. Reynolds 5. 31 stickers, please contact me (Skip). This does not apply to the all- numeric. These begin with. Oh. For these all- numeric numbers with a leading. LATE 1. 98. 0 to LATE. A couple of serial numbers have been submitted. This letter designates the. The remaining six characters are typical. It appears. that some custom frames were built that did not fit within the. For example, a 7. Columbus tubing instead of 5. What leading letter to use? See. note below,****. Again, this. is the date of serializing, not necessarily model year. The last three characters - The final letter. A to Z and the final two numbers go from 0. Alternatively, the letter. This gives a range of 2. Any. other ideas for these last three characters? The rest of the code defines time to a month. Hence the change to the sequential system that was. Notes: * There. is no Model 3. Ishiwata high tensile double butted. SN A4. F9. H6. 7. It has touring length chainstays. Another small mystery; for now we'll call it a 3. One interesting. variant of the SN code has been submitted. It has a leading. B and has eight characters instead of the usual 7 (B4. K6. B1. 09). The date from. SN is Nov. Probably a TX2. SN. TX7. 00 frames were available as. Columbus tubing instead of the specified. Reynolds 5. 31. These bikes were designated as Model TX7. However. this model did not appear in any of the Trek brochures on this. Serial numbers beginning with M or. N (4. 1X and 6. 1X bikes or frames) seem to have a different meaning. The year digit is the fourth. In the 5. 0 M and N serial numbers that. The remaining part of the serial numbers seem normal. According to the brochures, Trek did not make. X and 6. 1X bikes or frames during 7. These serial numbers apparently. Trek models. This variation to the SN system may have been. By using the fourth character. For M and N leading serial numbers, if the TREK. If it has a colorwrap, the bike is. B. Serial numbers for four model 5. F) have been reported that have similar unexpected. The frames have the early TREK graphics on the seattube. One early TX7. 00 (leading G), an evaluation. Another. impossible year code. This 4 may signify an evaluation unit. Trek used this form of serial number. O . Three (leading O) 9. Model 9. 50 frames were not made in 1. Another. 9. 50 frame was reported with a 0 (zero) in the year code, but. From the geometries, they all appear. When a Trek frame was repainted by Trek, an additional. These numbers were usually four digits. NNNN. LATE. 1. 98. TO LATE 1. 98. 6Late in 1. Trek changed to a new numbering system. U. S. The frames were numbered sequentially. The record of the assembly runs was documented. Trek (Kevin Tita) graciously provided a copy. The list ended in November of 1. This serial number system actually extended through. Table II below). The journal includes run number, model number, frame. Incidental information, including dates. We all owe thanks to Luker White who. These data were mined to produce bike production by. The results can be seen on the Trek. Bike Production by Model, Late 1. Click on the date link. Table I below to go to the detailed serial number information for. Table I - 1. 98. 0 to 1. Notes for Table I: Table I contains dates of frame serializing, and. At some time late in each year. September or October) frames were built for (then painted. This journal information is. Table I. The year designations in the table. This. may be a result of subcontracting some frame fabrication. For some years, the model number given may be the. X0. 0 number) for a series of models that have. For example, a 1. Model 6. 10 could have been built into either a 6. Some of the Model 1. A future task is to sort. Some of these are presented in the 8. Some early and mid 8. TSI or 6. 0TSI. In the early 1. Tim S. Isaac designed new. Trek. The new bottom bracket. TSI (or more rarely, 6. TSI). This. designation is not part of the serial number but is a model number. The TSI are Tim's initials. The 5. 8 or 6. 0 refer to the. Some frames in this period have a leading . This may be more prevalent on lower level. Just disregard. it when looking up the number in the tables below. Frame Sizes in the SN list below are as given on. For some entries, only a two- digit number was given. So - an entry of 2. Page 9 ends with SN 0. These were made late in the year, so they probably were. At least some of these were provided to Trek as . One reported SN in these ranges, for an 8. TML. From the serial number list, the number of Trek. Merida late in 8. Merida is a Taiwanese bike company that was. It is currently a major, worldwide player in. See http: //www. merida. LATE 1. 98. 6 to 1. This 6 digit (7 digit beginning in 1. US). The number may or may not have a leading. The model. is not available for these numbers but the year can be determined or. Table II below. The information in the table is from. Our thanks to them. In contrast. to the serial number dates in Table I above, the years in Table II. Table II - Model Years 1. Year. Serial Numbers Include. FOREIGN- BUILT FRAMES AND BIKES AFTER 1. Three different serial number forms have been submitted. Trek Model 4. 00 frames. One, marked . The SN was located on the. A second serial number is 8. According. to the Trek- provided SN list, this corresponds to a 2. This SN form is for frames/bikes made. US The number was marked on the bottom of the bottom bracket. This number was marked. It is likely this 4. For the 1. 98. 3 Model 4. Trek used three sources. Several 1. 98. 4 Trek 4. These. frames, or complete bikes, apparently were made in Japan by an outside. The numbers submitted are in the range of 4. An 8 or 9 character alphanumeric code was used for. Taiwan. Most of these. This form of serial number appears to. The number leads with. 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